TL;DR:
- What is it? Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that binds water molecules, hydrates, increases elasticity, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces water loss. Found mostly in the dermis, it protects against external factors.
- Production: Biocompatible, first synthesized in 1964, sourced from animal tissues or bacterial fermentation (Streptococcus equi). Common concentrations: 0.2–1%, up to 2% in lotions.
- Anti-aging: Improves skin hydration, firmness, and acts as an antioxidant. Stimulates keratinocytes and supports the extracellular matrix.
- Enhancements: Bioactives (e.g., vitamins, plant extracts) amplify effects—antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brightening, photoprotective.
- Cross-linking: Non-cross-linked variants hydrate best; cross-linked ones are durable and used in fillers.
- Aesthetic medicine: Used in fillers for wrinkle reduction, volumizing (e.g., lips, jaw), and specialized procedures (e.g., hand rejuvenation, G-spot augmentation). Effects are temporary and well-tolerated.
Every woman has certainly had or has in her skin care collection, a cosmetic with hyaluronic acid. It is being added to more and more skin care products. The multidirectional effect of hyaluronic acid contributes to its prevalence on the market. Nowadays, skin is an indicator of health, so we place special emphasis on its condition, and cosmetics manufacturers enrich their products with the most diverse ingredients. What exactly is hyaluronic acid? How is it produced and what is its phenomenon?
What is hyaluronic acid? – structure and properties of the preparation
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide, or polysaccharide. It is formed by alternately arranged molecules of N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid. It sounds complicated, but its structure is very simple. So is the function it performs, simple but so important! One molecule of hyaluronic acid can bind about 250 molecules of water. Thus, it ensures proper hydration and tension of our body cells. It is responsible for their hydration and elasticity. Hyaluronic acid in the body forms an occlusive layer on the surface of the skin, retains moisture, smooths and promotes regeneration. When applied to the skin, it leaves a subtle film that reduces water loss from the epidermal surface and strengthens the hydrolipid barrier. The protective effect is to increase the skin's resistance to adverse external factors. Similar properties are demonstrated by cosmetics with the addition of hyaluronic acid or its derivatives. Most hyaluronic acid is accumulated in the dermis, while the synthesis of this compound is almost four times greater in the epidermis.
Hyaluronic acid production
It was first synthesized in 1964. Interestingly, it is biocompatible – its structure and structure are identical in all living organisms. Hence its very low immunogenicity. The source of hyaluronic acid is animal tissues, while the mass production of cosmetics mainly uses bacteria of the genus Streptococcus equi, synthesizing it during the process of biotechnological fermentation. Appropriate conditions for the culture of bacterial strains, as well as a high degree of purification, determine the production of hyaluronic acid of high quality. In cosmetic preparations, it is found in concentrations ranging from 0.2 to 1%. The maximum concentration of sodium hyaluronate in body lotion is 2%.
Anti-aging effect of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is used in many anti-aging products. As we age, cells lose the ability to synthesize this valuable substance, the skin tends to become drier, thinner, and less firm. It has been observed that hyaluronic acid affects the growth of keratinocytes, which protect the epidermis from aging processes. It has also been shown that the product actively participates in skin cell signaling by binding to the appropriate receptors, while affecting the stability of the extracellular matrix. All of the above-mentioned properties of hyaluronic acid support its anti-aging and antioxidant effects.
Addition of active ingredients
The addition of other bioactive substances to hyaluronic acid, such as vitamins, proteins, plant extracts, or probiotics, enhances its moisturizing, regenerating, and anti-aging effects. Moreover, such a treatment contributes to additional effects and benefits such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brightening, or photoprotective. In addition, it ensures better absorption and retention of these active ingredients in the layers of the skin. Hyaluronic acid has been proven to increase the penetration of the active ingredient through the stratum corneum. Examples of extracts used in cosmetic products with hyaluronic acid and its derivatives (e.g., sodium hyaluronate) and biological benefits are as follows:
- phenolic compounds (increase intracellular concentration of ceramides),
- polysaccharides (antioxidant, anti-aging properties),
- trace elements (skin whitening),
- polyphenols (soothing hyperpigmentation, increasing skin firmness),
- fatty acids (anti-inflammatory effect),
- amylopectin (hydration),
- fiber (antioxidant abilities),
- flavonoids (antioxidant, photoprotective properties).
Hyaluronic acid cross-linking vs. its effects
The biological activity and penetration of hyaluronic acid into the skin depend primarily on the molecular weight as well as the mode of synthesis of the compound itself. The mechanism of penetration of the substance through the skin itself is still poorly understood. Hyaluronic acid used in cosmetics differs in the degree of cross-linking of the molecules. The higher the degree of cross-linking, the lower the moisturizing properties of hyaluronic acid. The non-cross-linked formulation has the best moisturizing properties, the more cross-linked, the less it penetrates the deeper layers of the skin. It is used in moisturizing creams or serums. There are also mixtures containing both high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Cross-linked hyaluronic acid is subjected to a special step of combining whole chains of the biopolymer into larger structures. Such a formulation is much more durable and resistant to degradation. Cross-linked formulations are mainly used during aesthetic medicine procedures – tissue filling. When deciding on aesthetic medicine services, remember to use qualified personnel, using proven preparations of good quality.
Hyaluronic acid vs. aesthetic medicine
Hyaluronic acid plays an important role in aesthetic medicine as a popular ingredient used to improve skin appearance and reduce signs of aging. It is a naturally occurring ingredient in the human body, responsible for skin hydration and elasticity. In aesthetic medicine, hyaluronic acid is often used in the form of fillers to even out wrinkles, improve facial contours, increase volume in the mouth or correct asymmetry. In addition to facial treatments, hyaluronic acid can be used in aesthetic medicine interventions such as:
- hand rejuvenation and modeling,
- G-spot augmentation,
- chin and jaw volumetry,
- clitoral sensitization, labia fill and modeling,
- filling of nasolabial furrows, filling of the valley of tears, temples or filling of smoker's wrinkles.
Thanks to its ability to bind water, hyaluronic acid acts as a natural moisturizer, improving skin hydration and giving the skin a healthier, younger appearance. In addition, hyaluronic acid-based fillers are usually well tolerated by the body and provide immediate results, making them very popular with patients looking for quick and effective solutions. One of the main advantages of hyaluronic acid is also its temporary nature – unlike some other substances used in aesthetic medicine, the effects of hyaluronic acid-based fillers are usually temporary, giving patients flexibility and control over their appearance.
Conclusion
Hyaluronic acid is a powerhouse for skincare and aesthetic medicine. From deep hydration to wrinkle reduction, its versatility and safety make it a staple in beauty routines and treatments. Its ability to enhance skin health and deliver visible, yet reversible results, ensures its ongoing popularity. Whether in your daily moisturizer or used during professional procedures, hyaluronic acid supports youthful, healthy skin. Remember, the effectiveness often depends on its formulation and proper application. Explore its potential, but always prioritize trusted products and skilled professionals for optimal results.
